Nigel's AW20 Picks
Whilst home in Newcastle last week, Nigel Cabourn took time out from designing upcoming collections, riding his bike and hoarding rare vintage gear to pick out a few choice items from the current AW20 range. Here’s what he opted for...
At the top is the British Army Jacket. This is a tough cotton twill work-jacket, which combines the shape of a French chore jacket with details from vintage military garb—like that pleated pocket on the chest, which is based on the small field-dressing pocket found on the British Army battle-dress trousers designed in the late 1930s and worn during WW2.
The ideal do-it-all jacket, this hard-wearing functional jacket works just as well in its own right as it does as Nigel wears his here, tucked into the British Army Pants for a coverall-esque utility suit.
The George Lowe Roll Neck is a serious slice of knitwear, made in Scotland from chunky three gauge wool, and based around the striped roll-neck submariner’s sweater worn by explorer George Lowe during the 1955-1958 Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition.
Nigel spotted photos of George wearing his orange-striped sweater in a book called the Crossing of Antarctica, and this homage has been a fixture of the winter range ever since. Like the original, it’s got a high turtle-neck collar and long cuffs, meaning it’s prime for cold, blustery days when draught exclusion is required.
The Arctic Stripe Shirt is a relaxed overshirt made from super-soft brushed cotton. Not too dissimilar to the Big Shirt from a few seasons ago, it’s got two chest pockets and two large side-entry handwarmer pockets, as well as some reassuringly hefty distressed metal Lybro-branded buttons down the front.
A highly versatile piece, it’s the sort of thing that can be worn as either a shirt, or as a light jacket—perfect for layering.
A firm favourite often seen on Nigel’s head, the Solid Beanie is a classically-styled watch cap, made in Scotland from tightly woven seven-gauge wool. With no gimmicks or superfluous features, it’s the sort of thing that doesn’t need too much explanation or flowery prose. Put simply, it keeps your head warm, and looks good doing it.
And finally, there’s the Mihara X Nigel Cabourn Sneaker. The eagle-eyed might have spotted Nigel has been wearing these out and about for a good while, but they’re now finally available to all. A product of Nigel’s ongoing work with cult footwear designer Mihara Yasuhiro, they combine classic running shoe design with traditional shoe-making techniques to create a truly singular sneaker, quite unlike anything else around.
Not only are they made from premium materials, but that unique sole has been made using a mold which was originally sculpted by hand from clay. It’s this hand-made element which gives the shoes their signature ‘melted’ look—a million miles away from the homogenised perfection of most modern trainers. And what’s more, they’re very comfortable.