What if Lee "101" had been born in Europe in 1925?

A curated collection joining the 101-year history of Lee’s "101" line with the craftsmanship of Nigel Cabourn "OX’ed Silver."

The collection draws inspiration from the Lee garments worn across America's railways, ranches and rodeos in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s. Through his heritage suiting label, OX'ed Silver, era-defining styles, including the 91J Loco Jacket, 101J Jacket, 91B Overall and 101 Jean, were studied and transformed into collection-worthy pieces crafted in Japan.

At the heart of the collection is Brurry Denim, a proprietary fabric developed by Nigel Cabourn ‘OX'ed Silver’ debuting with the Lee capsule. Woven in Japan from intentionally uneven and unpredictable yarns, the selvedge denim is designed to evolve, creating rich texture, irregular fading, and unique wear patterns that ensure no two garments age exactly alike.

“I wanted to use a unique denim, something unexpected. I was inspired by European vintage garments from the 1920s and their fabric imperfections: irregular, unstable and beautifully inconsistent. That’s how Brurry Denim was born. Normally, it would be spelled Blurry but I changed the L to an R to give it a sense of instability. The name Brurry embodies the philosophy behind the fabric,” said ZUKI, Design Head of Nigel Cabourn Silver Ox’ed.

Railway Man

Inspired by Lee workwear worn by railway workers in the 1920s, when locomotives were the primary transportation across America. Each style features
archival details reminiscent of original designs, such as period-correct buttons, hair-on-hide patches and suspender attachments on the jean. Crafted in Japan, the yarn is hank-dyed in pure indigo, then treated for a deep tone and archival look. Woven on modified vintage shuttle looms, the signature right-hand twill Brurry Denim gives a rich uneven texture designed to evolve with wear.

Ranch Worker

A reinterpretation of the legendary 101J jacket and Lee buttonfly jean worn by ranchers throughout the 1940s. The pieces couple classic Lee details like the jeans’
leather waist patch and the jacket’s pleated-front design with military-inspired influences, including laurel wreath buttons and exposed selvedge accents. Woven in Japan on modified vintage shuttle
looms using right-hand and left-hand twills. Combined with Cabourn’s signature Brurry Denim, the contrasting weave patterns create a distinctive patina and texture over time.

Rodeo Clown

Paying tribute to the oversized trousers worn by rodeo clowns, this bold
silhouette reimagines Lee's historic Cowboy 101-Z, known for its revolutionary zip-fly. Archival details include a wide relaxed fit, rear waistband cinch, and suspender attachments. Made in Japan, Cabourn’s
signature Brurry denim is woven using right and left-hand twills creating a rich texture that evolves with wear.

The Lee x Nigel Cabourn ‘OX’ed Silver’ collection launches in Japan on September 12, and will be available worldwide on September 15 on Lee.com and selected stockists.

Find out more
Shop the Collection