Hello everyone. This is Sakakibara from the Nakameguro store.
Sweatshirts originated as athletic wear in the late 1910s. Derived from the word "sweat," they were developed to absorb sweat effectively. The exquisite details and designs of vintage clothing are a unique charm of sweatshirts from a bygone era, and they continue to fascinate many people even today.
We'd like to introduce cardigans and sweatshirts that faithfully reproduce the details and textures of vintage clothing. These are items that could become future vintage pieces.
A cut-and-sew cardigan inspired by 1920s work jackets. Vintage details are incorporated, such as the piped outer pockets and the finishing of the facings.
We will explain in detail the exceptional fabrics that only Nigel Cabourn can create.
1 | Carefully woven fabric
1970's VINTAGE AZUMA KNITTING MACHINE
We use a machine that features a "slow knitting" technique, which is not found in modern high-speed knitting machines. By incorporating plenty of air into the knit, we can create a fluffy thickness and a unique feel. Prioritising texture over efficiency, this knitting machine, which produces a warm and inviting finish, is still maintained and kept running in perfect condition by skilled craftsmen.
When weaving fabric or knitting, tension is applied to the yarn. Generally, the faster the production speed, the more tension needs to be applied, and fabrics and knits that are moulded under tension tend to return to their original state after repeated wear and washing. This is why clothes lose their shape randomly.
Nigel Cabourn's products are meticulously crafted in terms of yarn twisting, weaving, and knitting, "The condition in the store isn't the best; we want the item to be in its best condition after being worn repeatedly over a long period of time."
2 | Fabric thickness
When people hear "AZUMA FLEECE," many probably think of 20.5oz heavy-weight sweatshirts.
However, this AZUMA FLEECE is knitted with a lightweight 14G (gauge) fabric. This product has a tightly woven gauge with 14 needles per inch (approximately 2.54 cm), resulting in a soft and smooth fabric.
Furthermore, the term "urake" (fleece-lined) used in the product name refers to a fabric where the inside of a sweatshirt or hoodie is woven in a loop pattern, similar to a towel. Its appeal lies in its moderate warmth and high breathability, making it suitable for wear throughout spring, autumn, and winter.
[Height: 155cm / Wearing size: 8]
The cozy ivory colour pairs well with rugged army cargo pants for a sweet and edgy look.
I used orange as an accent colour, and combined it with khaki and ivory for a soft colour scheme!
This crewneck sweatshirt is characterised by its compact size. With its shorter length, this piece is perfect for layering!
The gusset, which enhances elasticity while also functioning as a sweatband, is inspired by sweatshirts from the 1940s. The gusset was sewn using an old-fashioned reverse sewing machine, of which there are only a few in Japan, and it's considered a rare, almost mythical machine.
The single thread running along the tip of the V-neck (the gusset) is a reinforcement stitch often seen on vintage sweatshirts and sweaters. This is a remnant of older sewing machines, and this "slightly rough way of passing the thread" itself is reproduced as an important design element that creates a vintage feel.
Furthermore, the slimness and small size of the gusset are faithful reproductions of the sweatshirts from that era. This small gusset is a detail that sweatshirt lovers will absolutely adore.
Personally, I like the V-shaped cutting on the sleeve cuffs. This is one of the most connoisseur-favourite designs among vintage sweatshirts, created to improve ease of putting on and warmth. It's considered one of the rare details that's not often seen in the vintage market.
[Height: 155cm / Wearing size: 8]
For the inner layer, I'm wearing a BRITISH OFFICERS SH TYPE2 OX WOMAN shirt. I chose pink because it reminds me of cherry blossoms! In layered styles, the length of the inner layer that peeks out from under the top greatly influences the overall impression. The cropped length of the sweatshirt makes it perfect for creating an ideal layered look!
We look forward to your visit and inquiries!
Sakakibara
