《The allure of persimmon dyeing, perfected over time》KAKISHIBU LINEN

Hello everyone who reads this blog. This is Yabiku from THE ARMY GYM FLAGSHIP STORE.


How was my first appearance on Instagram Live? I was incredibly nervous, so I'm worried about whether I was able to communicate well, but there are still many things I didn't get to tell you, so I'll share them on this blog as well.


I have a lot to talk about this time too, so I hope you'll take a look when you have some time. So, let's get started!



Sample image

- OX'ed Silver Collection -

 

In post-Industrial Revolution Europe, the centre of industry shifted from agriculture to industrial production and a wide variety of other sectors (so-called primary and secondary industries), leading to explosive economic growth.


OX'ed Silver focuses on the workers who lived through this vibrant era and incorporates their stories into its collections.  This time, OX'ed Silver has adopted fishermen, a primary industry worker, as the theme of its collection.



Sample image


~ Persimmon tannin dyeing ~

 

Persimmon dyeing is one of Japan's traditional natural dyeing methods, and its unique texture is a major draw, achieved by using dye extracted from unripe persimmons. Its greatest feature is its rich aging process.


Even if the dye is initially a light colour, it changes over time to a deep amber or dark brown, and its appearance deepens with use. The fact that each piece develops a unique texture, including colour variations and marks, is also part of its charm.


In addition to the natural texture unique to naturally derived dyes, it also possesses functional aspects such as water resistance and antibacterial properties.  It is a dyeing technique that combines beauty and practicality while utilising the power of nature.



■ FISHERMAN COAT KAKISHIBU LINEN


Sample image

 

 

The FISHERMAN COAT is inspired by the coats worn by fishermen and dockworkers to protect themselves from rain and wind. These coats were worn more as cold-weather clothing than as workwear. This coat has been dyed using the traditional Japanese dyeing technique of "persimmon tannin dyeing."



Sample image
Sample image
Sample image


This product is designed to function as an overcoat.


Details that support this include:
• Raglan sleeves to ensure adequate armholes
Pass-through pockets for accessing pockets in pants or jackets


Looking at old photographs and movies of working-class clothing, you often see jackets with collars or lapels.


Raglan sleeves, which allow for easy layering over a jacket, perfectly embody the role of an overcoat.


A particularly clear detail is the second one: the "pass-through pockets." Originally, coats primarily served to protect against rain and wind, so pockets themselves weren't essential. Instead, they were designed with "pass-through pockets" to access the pockets of the jacket or pants worn underneath. (※Depending on the industry and purpose, both may be present.)


However, in modern clothing, the lack of pockets is inconvenient. Therefore, this product includes pockets for practicality.


Incidentally, these pass-through pockets are a very convenient detail. The ability to quickly access inner pockets without unbuttoning the coat is a major advantage.



Sample image
Sample image
Sample image


Earlier, I mentioned that persimmon dyeing is a dyeing method that easily changes colour, but there are other notable features of linen items.


"That is the aging of the fabric."


With each wear, the fibres of linen loosen, and the initial stiffness gradually changes to suppleness. The unique "plump elasticity" that develops during this process is also one of its charms.


Furthermore, the wrinkles that are etched in with movement create beautiful shadows, giving depth to the appearance. Combined with the deepening of colour from persimmon dyeing, it develops an even more tasteful texture over time.



Sample image
Sample image

Height: 173cm / Wearing Size: 46


When wearing a long coat, I make sure to incorporate necklaces and layering. Just doing that adds depth to the styling and creates a sophisticated look.


The hood is detachable, which is also appealing as it can be changed according to the style and mood of the day. This coat exquisitely combines the rich texture unique to persimmon dye with the beautiful drape of linen.


I highly recommend the FISHERMAN COAT, which has an atmosphere that will appeal to connoisseurs.



■ FISHERMAN ZIPUP SHIRT

Sample image

 

 

When you think of a fisherman's shirt, this is probably the style that comes to mind for many people. The collar shape, the front opening, and the boxy silhouette are all characteristic of a fisherman's shirt.



Sample image
Sample image
Sample image


European fishermen's jackets can be broadly categorized into three national and design styles:  the boat neck style of the UK, the distinctive striped pattern of Germany, and the skipper-style front-opening jacket of France.


While it's difficult to make a definitive statement due to handmade items and the fact that Europe is a land-based region where elements from other regions can be mixed, considering this background, this product can be said to belong to the French type.


The distinctive shape of this collar is also well-suited to practicality. Fishermen primarily work on boats and are constantly at risk of falling into the sea. Because it was important to be able to quickly remove the jacket in case of an emergency, the skipper style, which is easy to put on and take off by slipping it over the head, was adopted.


Clothing becomes heavy very quickly when it absorbs water, so this is a functional design that reduces that risk.



Sample image
Sample image


The French style doesn't typically use zippers. Sea breezes contain salt, so metal items would rust.


So why use zippers?  I think it's because the zipper's placement allows for different looks. You can accessorize it with necklaces, scarves, bandanas, etc.



Sample image
Sample image

Height: 173cm / Wearing Size: 50


I think accessories are key to styling this type of item. Because of the unique collar design, adding a necklace or other accessories to accentuate the neckline is important. Furthermore, I recommend rolling up the cuffs to create a lighter look.


The FISHERMAN series is full of items that evoke the sea and summer, so it goes perfectly with seasonal styles.


I'd love to wear it with shorts, sandals, and sunglasses and walk along the beach while listening to Southern All Stars lol


Please check out this new OX'ed Silver.



Yabiku
掲載アイテム
Back to blog