Thank you for visiting our blog. This is Uenishi from the Okayama store.
April has arrived, and Okayama is finally experiencing spring-like weather!
It's a wonderful season! Speaking of spring, I always want some linen pants. I immediately bought a pair, and they're absolutely fantastic, so I'd like to introduce them to you! They're already a strong contender for best buy of the season!
These are French work pants made from ultra-high density linen fabric with a Nidom finish. While they're also available in ivory, this time I'll focus on the navy colour I purchased! A must-see for anyone looking for linen pants!
First, I'd like to draw your attention to this fabric, which is made from ultra-high-density linen treated with Nidom processing. This will be a bit long, but please bear with me!
First, regarding "ultra-high-density linen fabric," it is relatively easy to make thick linen threads, but it is extremely difficult to make thin threads from it. Because it is made of short fibres and lacks elasticity, the fibres do not easily intertwine during spinning, they break easily, and it is technically very difficult to consistently produce uniform, thin threads.
Also, while it is easy to weave linen loosely, it is extremely difficult to weave it at high density. The reason is the same as above: linen fibres are short and do not stretch or shrink.
Therefore, if too much tension is applied to the linen threads, they will break. And this fabric is woven with "thin threads at high density," which is extremely difficult in the spinning and weaving of linen material.
It is because the fabric has gone through this difficult process that it makes a big difference in how it looks when actually worn. The elegant, understated matte sheen and natural yet refined drape are unique to this fabric, making it hard to believe it's linen. The smooth surface created by the ultra-high-density weave suppresses the cheap wrinkles and roughness often found in inexpensive linen, making the deep navy colour stand out even more beautifully.
However, weaving fabric at such a high density usually makes it stiff and uncomfortable to wear. To overcome this drawback, the fabric has been treated with *Nidom processing, which gives it a soft and supple texture.
*Nidom processing is a process that softens the fabric by beating and kneading it in water.
The natural texture and breathability derived from natural materials remain, while the stiffness and clunkiness are eliminated. It will become even softer as you wear it, and you'll enjoy how it conforms to your body. I was really struck by the incredibly *logical fabric design* of these pants.
The next point that struck me was the considerably wide hem and thigh width.
In 1930s France, ease of movement during work was the top priority, resulting in a relaxed fit throughout the trousers. While modern work clothes are often slim-fitting and made of stretch material, in the 1930s, synthetic fibres (stretch materials) did not yet exist, so widening the hem and thigh width made sense in order to provide mobility with natural fibres.
Considering this width in the context of modern life, it can be said that it is a setting that is well suited to Japan's hot and humid climate. The wide hem allows air to pass through the space between the skin and the trousers, resulting in a light and breathable feel. Of course, the linen material also plays a role in this function.
I feel that Nigel Cabourn's attitude towards manufacturing is evident in how he has incorporated modern functional beauty while retaining the details of the time!
While the quality of the linen fabric is undeniable, what really caught my eye were the high-waist design and cinch back.
Even without a belt, they provide a secure hold, eliminating the clunky feel typical of work pants and striking a perfect balance for a more refined look. The way the cinch back cinches out at the top, creating a petal-like shape, is simply irresistible.
I wear a size 32, and when I cinch the back tightly, the waist fits perfectly. Not having to wear a belt is incredibly comfortable, making this a recommended way to wear them for anyone who wants to be free from the tightness around their waist.
The upper corners of the patch pockets on the front and back are reinforced with bar tacks.
*Bar tacks are stitching applied in the shape of a "一" (one) in areas subject to stress. They are used to reinforce the upper corners of pockets and the top and bottom of belt loops.
They originated as an alternative to rivets and are still a common detail in many garments today. I love how this garment has such a refined appearance yet incorporates details unique to workwear!
Height: 180cm / Wearing Size: 32
I styled it with a hemp pullover shirt. It really goes well with linen items. When the temperature rises a bit more, I'd like to wear it with a Nigel Cabourn t-shirt tucked in! Please come and try on these work pants that I absolutely love at the store!
The cherry blossoms near Korakuen Garden were in full bloom! It's only about a 10-minute walk from Nigel Cabourn Okayama store, so please stop by!
